Gregory Flowers ice fishing near Oojituk Bay, Nunatsiavut © Inuit Nunangat Taimanngani
Travelling Through Time Immemorial: Hopedale
I ’VE HOPPED ON AND OFF over 50 airplanes in the past two years. Northern travel always leads to adventures — and, often,misadventures. Last year, for example, I flew to Hopedale, Nunatsiavut, where I was swallowed whole by snow.
As a coordinator for the video storytelling project Inuit Nunangat Taimannganit (‘Inuit Nunangat since time immemorial’), I have been travelling with videographer Jake Hanna to visit communities, filming stories that document our lives and history.
Each trip we meet incredibly knowledgeable Inuit who not only share their intimate stories with us on camera, but make us part of their family for a day.
The Hopedale trip started off as most do — waiting for the weather to break at the airport, this time in Happy Valley, Goose Bay. But as I finally squish into my seat on the Twin Otter, I start to worry. It’s spring, and getting anywhere by snowmobile over the warming land and ice makes for some precarious conditions.
Rascal, the Flowers’s family dog. © Inuit Nunangat Taimanngani
One of our storytellers on this trip is Gregory Flowers who, with his wife Ruth, is taking us by snowmobile to their cabin near Oojituk Bay. I watch Gregory and Ruth journey across the land with confidence. They know what to do when we come across a seal or bear, and know where to point their handlebars. This is their home. Their navigation puts me at ease.
I soon learn why Gregory and his family built their cabins near Oojituk Bay, about 40 miles from Hopedale. It’s special, and provides everything they need. They can mill their own lumber, go out by boat or snowmobile, they can hunt, fish, and live well sharing the land with family. “For me, I wish all our people could enjoy going wherever they want to on our land,” says Gregory.
In the cabin we sip coffee before starting interviews. As Jake and Gregory walk around the cabin filming, I notice a picturesque boat resting in the snow, so I trudge over to film it up close.
Gregory Flowers directing the way to his cabin. © Inuit Nunangat Taimanngani
The next thing I remember is falling.
Snow can be deceptive. What I thought was solid land, wasn’t. Up to my chest in snow, I lift my pocket camera over my head and wigglelift myself out of the snow hole. Rascal, Gregory’s family dog, notices my struggle and runs up to my face to “help.” I know Jake’s filming only meters away, so I don’t want to disturb the interview with noise, but I’m spitting out snow and struggling not to laugh while fighting to save the camera against wet dog and snow.
Gathering myself on higher ground, I see I’m not the only klutz. I had to keep quiet, but I can’t help laughing. Turns out, it doesn’t matter anyway. Jake takes a step forward while interviewing Gregory and, as soon as he does, he’s swallowed by snow underneath him. We can plan all we want, but sometimes things just go wrong.
Gregory Flowers on snowmobile moments after shooting a seal near Oojituk Bay, Nunatsiavut. © Inuit Nunangat Taimanngani
As we brush off snow and laugh off the awkwardness, I ask where we should film next. Gregory takes us by snowmobile to a nearby waterfall — a breathtaking spot. The dense forest is silent until we hear the impressive roaring falls, which make me feel small. He says this is where he feels most calm. I can see why.
Later, we join Ruth, who’s fishing with friends. We fish ourselves, and film a bit of the area before heading back to the cabin. I don’t want to leave, and as I wait for another flight at the Hopedale airport, my head is swimming with memories. I’m reminded of how grateful I am to see, hear, and feel these incredible stories — and to experience my own.
